When the world is cold and bleak, each of us has a happy place to which we can go. For some, it’s a simple trip to McDonald’s to allow the taste and smell to trigger for us the comfort of childhood memories, for others it might be a trip to Disneyland, “the happiest place on earth”, but for me, Machane Yehuda in Jerusalem is my happy place.
Machane Yehuda is the shuk in the new city. It is a short ride on the light rail from Damascus Gate. The market is one of the largest in Israel with some 250 stalls and vendors in the market, as well as being one of the oldest, initially established in the late 19th century.
Machane Yehuda, has the combination of everything that I love. There is first and foremost the selection of produce. Everything you could want from tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and onions, to watermelons, plums, figs, and grapes, and more can be found in the stalls in the market. There are also a dozen different spice shops, at least as many shops selling dried fruit and nuts, as well as stalls selling meat, fish, and more. There are more than a dozen different bakeries with bread, pita, pastries, cakes, and more. And there are the restaurants serving everything from falafel and shawarma or grilled meats or pizza to fish and chips or empanadas.
The eyes drink in the sights of all of the colors displayed in all of the stalls, but the sensory experience extends well beyond the visual. The sounds of the market ring in your ears through the banter between vendors and the calls directed toward customers trying to convince us who has the best bananas or the lowest price on mangoes. In addition there are all the conversations among the customers, greeting each other, catching up on news, children complaining, and shoppers comparing prices . Finally, there are the smells of the market: fruits and vegetables, herbs and spices, nuts roasting, meat grilling, falafel and chips in the fryer, meat and fish, bread baking, and more.
And in Machane Yehuda you see all of Israel pushing and shoving and shopping side by side. Teenagers jostling for space with seniors, the ultra-Orthodox vying for attention with the devoutly secular. Tourists and sabras straining to sample halvah, those whose families came from Iraq or Yemen or Morocco alongside those from Poland or France or South Africa.
It is a show that you can sit back and just watch for a while and then join in and be part of the performance. For me, it is pure magic. Because I would be traveling back up to Nahariya, I didn’t want to load up on produce or anything that might go bad after a couple of hours, so while I wandered and took in all the sights, sounds, and scents, I bought spices, and baked goods.
At Duvshanit, I bought a what resembled a quesadilla, but inside of a tortilla, it was pita-like bread on the griddle, with warm, gooey cheese inside, and a crust that carmelized a little on the grill, as well as buying some pastry to bring back. Across the street at Glueless, I bought some gluten free bread for my daughter. I spent most of my time just wandering and soaking up the moment, but did buy some spice blends for rice, and pasta, and pilpel chuma for shakshuka and more.
Magical times must come to an end, and so did my time at Machane Yehuda. I took the light rail to the Central Railway Station and from there it was two easy train rides to Nahariya and I was home.
Wherever one might be on the political spectrum or socio-economic spectrum








































































































